Building a 32-foot Gooseneck Luxury Tiny House on Wheels (Part 0 – Trailer Intro)

My Tiny House Journey Begins!

That picture above is of my custom 32-foot Gooseneck Trailer with an 8.5 foot deck over the gooseneck (maximizes space), on which I plan to build a 40.5 foot long tiny house (38 feet long inside with a 2.5 foot deck on the back, including a 10 foot loft, roughly ~380sf or so).  

If you haven’t heard my story or want to know WHY I’d want to live in a space less than 400 square feet (LOL), click here to read my story about going Tiny if you missed it or you can also watch this 4-part video series I created on my personal blog about what a tiny house is and some of the benefits of going tiny, which I created while “out on the road” traveling, as I love to do…

The Details of my 32-foot Tiny House Trailer

In this first blog post about my future 40+ foot gooseneck tiny house on wheels (THOW) that I’m going to be building personally, I’d like to get right into the details about this trailer.  But first (lol), here’s a quick video of me on the day I first laid eyes on my custom built 32-foot long gooseneck trailer…

My Custom 32-foot Gooseneck Tiny House Trailer Specs:

• Custom-built 32-foot long gooseneck trailer with 8.5-foot deck over the gooseneck (40.5 total length, 8’4″ total width)
• Triple axles rated for 7,100 lbs each or total of 21,300 lbs
• Constructed with 32-foot long 2×8 metal tubing and 8-inch C-channel for front and backs of trailer and deck; gooseneck drops down from front C-channel (so house has flat front wall) along with electric brake controls and trailer lighting (as well as gel battery brake backup unit) and backup/emergency chains; (bought a gooseneck hitch lock as well and converted trailer supports handle to be removable); also had additional jacks welded onto the back of the trailer on each side so entire trailer could be lifted/leveled off ground and wheels (pics and details in the next post)
• 2″x3″ perpendicular cross-members, flush with 2×8 metal tubing, every 16 O.C. (on-center)
• 3″ angle-iron runs on both sides of trailer, parallel to 2×8 metal tubing to get to width of 100 inches (8’4″), connected via 2″x3″ metal tubing cross-member extensions from front and back of 9-foot long rectangular-boxed fenders (which rise about 8″ above trailer deck) and on deck over gooseneck
  • I also installed treated 2×8 boards on both sides of trailer to mount the 24 awg flashing I had added to the bottom of the trailer to create an 8-inch deep subfloor; the 3/4″ subflooring attached directly to the floor of the metal trailer for optimum rigidity and strength from the bottom of the house up (you can see this detail in the next blog post in the series here)

(You can click on any of the pictures below to enlarge them…)

Pretty exciting start on the Tiny House Journey!

The trailer cost me around $6,000 and took several weeks to construct.  Had I thought to get the flashing added ahead of time (much easier for them to do when building the trailer at the factory than for me to get access to that kind of flashing and attach myself), might have cost me around $7,000 total (probably would be $9,000 plus as configured anywhere else that I looked).

The next step is modifying the gooseneck trailer in order to begin insulating the 8-inch cavity floor which you will see in the next post!

Let me know what you think in the comments below…

I appreciate you!

– Hans Schoff

PS> Get the latest updates on my tiny house build as well as free resources, information and training on Going Tiny and Being Free and building your own tiny house and much, much more by clicking here.